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  4. Retinol: everything about its effects and application

RETINOL: EVERYTHING ABOUT ITS EFFECTS AND APPLICATION

Beautiful, smooth, fresh skin with a youthful glow - who doesn't dream of that? But over time, the skin loses freshness and tone. Anti-aging ingredients in skincare products can work wonders here. One of these powerful substances is retinol. But what actually is retinol and why do we find the active ingredient in serums and creams more and more often?

22 Mar 2022

From BIOTHERM

Close up woman face touching cheek

WHAT IS RETINOL?

Closeup face woman

Retinol belongs to the retinoids family and is a fat-soluble vitamin A derivative naturally occurring in the human body. A derivative is a product directly derived from a parent compound. In this case, the parent compound is vitamin A.

Pure vitamin A is an essential micronutrient that is aggressive and can irritate the skin. Retinol is a much milder version of vitamin A.

Basically, vitamin A and retinol are essential for our survival, because without retinol, many important processes in our body would no longer function smoothly. Our immune system, sight, the protective barrier of our skin, and also hair and mucous membranes are dependent on retinol and vitamin A.

This is because all of our body's cells are protected by retinol, as vitamin A is a very effective free radical scavenger. Free radicals are produced in the body by degradation processes, damaging environmental aggressors, stress and an unhealthy diet. Thus, retinol can also help keep your skin looking young for longer.



WHAT TYPES OF RETINOL ARE THERE?

There are different types of retinol used in skincare products:

RETINOL DERIVATIVE

Is a precursor of retinol, which is less aggressive and rather gentle on the skin. A special retinol derivative is Pro-Retinol, developed by Biotherm.

PRO-RETINOL

This form is a derivative of vitamin A and palmitic acid yet is more stable than conventional retinol. Pro-Retinol is thus similar to retinol, particularly gentle on the skin but with the same positive and smoothing anti-aging effects as retinol.

RETINOL

Pure retinol can be found in skincare products in maximum concentrations of up to 1%. The lower the concentration, the less aggressive for the skin.

TRETINOIN

Tretinoin is pure vitamin A acid, which is also produced in very small quantities in the human body. Tretinoin has a very corrosive effect on the skin and is only prescribed by a doctor.

IN WHAT CONCENTRATIONS IS RETINOL AVAILABLE?

Not every concentration of retinol suits every skin concern. Three different concentrations of retinol are commonly used in skincare products:

0.01% to 0.03% retinol: A small dosage is available over the counter and is suitable for sensitive skin prone to dryness and flaking. This milder dosage is also optimal for those new to using retinol.

0.04% to 0.1% retinol: If the skin is already somewhat saggy and forms small wrinkles, a larger amount of retinol is required in skincare products.

0.3% to 1% retinol: Pronounced spots and acne require a more effective dose of retinol. In such a high concentration, retinol is prescribed only by a doctor.

WHAT DOES RETINOL DO IN THE BODY?

Retinol plays a crucial role in many important tasks in our body:

  • Regeneration and skin growth[1]
  • Supports the self-protective functioning of the skin
  • It forms mucous membranes and blood cells
  • It has anti-inflammatory and protective powers[2]
  • Supports vision and eye health
  • Supports cell growth and the skeleton
  • It is important for healthy, full hair and intact, strong teeth

HOW EFFECTIVE IS RETINOL IN SKINCARE PRODUCTS?

Since retinol molecules are able to penetrate the upper layer of the skin, retinol is versatile and effective. In the skin layers where collagen – which is crucial for skin stability and resilience – is produced, retinol can boost collagen production, ensuring that the skin looks fresh and plump again.

What's more, retinol removes flakes found on the top layer of the skin and thus has an exfoliating effect. This stimulates the renewal of skin cells. The complexion is therefore significantly refined and looks fresher and more youthful.

WHOM IS RETINOL SUITABLE FOR?

Since skin aging begins, on average, from the age of 25 in both men and women, the use of retinol in skincare products makes sense from this age onwards. In principle, retinol is also well tolerated because it is a substance produced naturally in the body.

Close up eye wrinkles face woman



RETINOL IN SKINCARE PRODUCTS

Retinol is one of the most effective ingredients in anti-aging products as it is more or less well tolerated by the skin and can have a positive effect on the first signs of aging. How fast retinol works depends on your skin type, the concentration in the skincare product you use, and on the product itself, i.e., the respective combination of active ingredients.

DAY CREAM WITH RETINOL

Our skin is exposed to many damaging aggressors every day. Be it UV radiation, air pollution, and seasonal temperature fluctuations. That is why it is very important for our skin to able to protect itself from these damaging factors, so that it can look fresh, rosy, and plump for longer.

A day cream with pro-retinol can provide the skin with important nutrients, moisturize it, and thus mobilize its self-healing and defensive capabilities. The Blue Pro-Retinol Multi-Correct Cream by Biotherm counteracts wrinkles and fine lines thanks to its powerful formula with Pro-Retinol. The anti-aging cream also stimulates cell renewal, which has a restructuring effect. The Life Plankton™ contained in the formula is a probiotic extract with 35 nutrients that increases the skin's cellular regeneration across eight different levels, strengthening the protective barrier. This intensive anti-aging effect is made even more successful thanks to the algae extract formulated from the blue-green algae. The complexion thus appears altogether more radiant and refined, and the skin tone more even. Thereby, the face cream with retinol is suitable as both a day and night skincare product and can be used by any skin type.

"THE POWERFUL COMBINATION OF OUR LIFE PLANKTON COMPLEX AND THE NUMBER 1 ANTI-AGING INGREDIENT RETINOL IS MY ABSOLUTE FAVORITE FOR PREVENTING UNEVEN SKIN AND THE FIRST SIGNS OF WRINKLES. I HAVE ALREADY RECOMMENDED IT TO ALL MY FRIENDS."

Kim McLean, Biotherm SkinCare Expert

NIGHT CREAM WITH RETINOL

Night Cream with Retinol Biotherm

It is especially useful for the skin at night, because at night the human body releases growth hormones, such as melatonin, which stimulate cell metabolism and thus lead to cell renewal. This is why you can clearly tell by looking at the skin if someone has had a bad night's sleep: pale skin, dark circles under the eyes, and wrinkles can all occur as a result.[3] A cream with retinol can effectively support the skin to renew its cells overnight, giving you a radiant complexion the next morning.


Did you know? The Blue Pro-Retinol Multi-Correct Cream not only incorporates a clean formula with ingredients of natural origin, but the packaging is also designed to be more sustainable and consists of 40% recycled glass. You can find out more about our commitment to sustainability here .

EYE CREAM WITH RETINOL

The thin skin around the eyes needs a lot of moisture in particular as this is where you usually see the first signs of aging. You don't necessarily need an eye care product with retinol. Pamper your skin with a moisturizing eye care.

LIP CARE WITH RETINOL

Just like on the eyes, the skin on the lips is very delicate and sensitive. Active ingredients, such as retinol, could be too irritating here, because cold dry air or heat in summer can put a lot of stress on the lips, making them rough and chapped. A regenerating lip care with shea butter is the solution here. Retinol in skincare products for the lips, should contain a very low dosage. The regenerating retinol can make lips look wonderfully soft, supple, and plump again.

SERUMS WITH RETINOL

Retinol serums are a wonderful booster for your anti-aging routine. The Force Supreme Blue Serum with blue-green algae extract and pro-retinol is a powerful anti-aging skincare product for men. The serum with retinol helps the skin to rebuild its protective barrier and acts against sagging skin and wrinkles .

Beauty Tip: The Life PlanktonTM Elixir also helps skin to regain its healthy radiance. The active ingredient combination of regenerating Life Plankton and hyaluronic acid prevent the excessive formation of free radicals due to oxidative stress. Your skin regenerates and glows with a youthfully freshness once again

Biotherm Force Supreme Blue Serum with


PEELING RETINOL

Peels for the face, also with retinol, have been proven to help against the development of your first lines, wrinkles and sagging skin. It also minimizes pigmentation spots and rough patches.[4] Why limit it to the face? Body scrubs stimulate blood circulation, activate skin metabolism and can make your skin glow.

Positive side effect: when applied regularly, even small dimples will disappear.

BODY LOTION WITH RETINOL

Since retinol stimulates the formation of collagen, it is suitable for strengthening connective tissue. You don't necessarily have to resort to the powerful active ingredient here either. The use of a regenerating and firming body lotion is also great for toning the skin on the body.

CARE ROUTINE WITH RETINOL FOR MEN AND WOMEN

Basically, any skincare routine must be tailored to your skin type. Unsure about which skin type you have? You can easily determine this with our Online Skin Analysis Tool . Your skincare routine with retinol could look like this:

  1. Start with a facial toner in the morning. Simply apply it to a cotton pad, cleanse the face thoroughly, and leave any excess to soak into the skin.

    2. Men can opt for a clarifying and refreshing PH-neutral gel face wash here.

  2. Then apply a moisturizing retinol cream with a low retinol concentration.

  3. Once this is absorbed, those with sensitive skin should apply a non-greasy sunscreen with a high SPF or a moisturizer with a sun protection factor afterwards.

    4. For this step, men should reach for a highly effective retinol serum . And then complete this step using a moisturizer with sun protection factor.

  4. In order to reduce wrinkles and dark circles around the eyes, you should now use an anti-aging eye care product. Men can give their eyes a boost of energy with a refreshing eye cream .

  5. In the evening, cleanse with a gentle exfoliating treatment or a nourishing cleansing oil.

  6. It is good to follow this with an anti-aging cream that promotes regeneration throughout the night.

    7. Here, men should reach for a highly effective anti-aging cream in combination with a revitalizing eye serum.

Closeup face man

RETINOL CREAM FOR REDUCING PIGMENT SPOTS AND AGE SPOTS

Retinol has an exfoliating effect and can remove and renew one skin layer after another after prolonged use. Pigment or age spots become paler or disappear completely.[5]

RETINOL AND UV RAYS

The use of skincare products with retinol makes the skin more sensitive because retinol has an exfoliating, skin-renewing effect. Thus, the skin usually becomes more sensitive to light after treatment with retinol. Especially when you just start out using retinol, you should definitely make sure to protect your skin with a skincare product formulated with a high enough sun protection factor and avoid direct sunlight. So: no sunbathing, and no visits to the tanning salon.

RETINOL: APPLICATIONS FOR DIFFERENT SKIN TYPES

Not all skin types react to the use of skincare products with retinol in the same way.


Closeup face woman

RETINOL IN BODY CARE

RETINOL FOR SAGGING SKIN

Retinol can also have an anti-aging effect in body care. This is because the regenerating and collagen-forming substance can plump the connective tissue after only a short period of time and is effective against sagging skin.

RETINOL FOR ORANGE PEEL SKIN (CELLULITE)

Cellulite is an inflammatory condition of the connective tissue and appears in the form of small or large dimples on the buttocks, thighs, but also abdomen and upper arms.[10] A body lotion with caffeine can help to level the subcutaneous fat tissue and minimize visible dimples. Retinol can also help you say goodbye to orange peel skin, because the anti-inflammatory and collagen-building vitamin A derivative acts deep-down under the skin and provides long-lasting, smoothing effects.

RETINOL FOR STRETCH MARKS

Stretch marks are usually caused by obesity, weight loss, rapid growth, or pregnancy. If this is the case, then a body lotion can help to transport moisture into the skin, making it appear more even. Retinol can also lead to the visual improvement of stretch marks due to its connective tissue-strengthening properties.

RETINOL - EFFECTS WHEN USED WITH OTHER INGREDIENTS

Because retinol can penetrate particularly deep into the skin, there are some other anti-aging ingredients that can benefit when combined with retinol. As can we!

RETINOL AND HYALURONIC ACID

Hyaluronic acid can store many times its own weight in water in the skin and occurs naturally in human tissue. In combination with retinol, hyaluronic acid can multiply the moisturizing properties even further.

RETINOL AND VITAMIN C

Vitamin C is one of the most important anti-aging substances because, among other things, it stimulates the formation of skin plumping collagen – just like retinol. What's more, both can brighten the skin (pigment spots), minimize scar tissue, and protect the skin from antioxidants both inside and out, all of which accelerate skin aging.

RETINOL AND NIACINAMIDE

Niacinamides can smooth the skin and regulate sebum production. The skin is soothed and strengthened. All these properties are further enhanced by the combination of active ingredients with retinol.

RETINOL IN FOOD

But it is not only in skincare products that retinol or vitamin A enters our bodies. Vitamin A is also present in all sorts of common foods:

  • Cheese and dairy products
  • Liver
  • Fish
  • Meat
  • Eggs

Those who follow a vegetarian or vegan diet should look for foods with a high beta-carotene content, because beta-carotene can be converted into vitamin A in the body. Beta-carotene is contained in:

  • Carrots
  • Sweet potatoes
  • Corn
  • Tomatoes
  • Green asparagus

CAPSULES WITH RETINOL AND SIDE EFFECTS OF RETINOL

A diet high in vitamin A is essential for your health. There are studies that say vitamin A deficiency can lead to cancer. However, there are also studies that suggest that exceeding the recommended daily amount of vitamin A can have a toxic effect and lead to hip fractures, for example. When taking multivitamin supplements, it should always be clarified with the doctor beforehand as to whether there is a need to take such a supplement at all.

Closeup face woman

RETINOL FAQS


[1] Wójcik A, Bartnicka E, Namieciński P, Rotsztejn H. Influence of the complex of retinol-vitamin C on skin surface lipids. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2015 Jun;14(2):92-9. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12140. Epub 2015 Mar 24. PMID: 25810364. URL: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25810364/. Aufgerufen am 22.02.2022.
[2] Polcz ME, Barbul A. The Role of Vitamin A in Wound Healing. Nutr Clin Pract. 2019 Oct;34(5):695-700. doi: 10.1002/ncp.10376. Epub 2019 Aug 7. PMID: 31389093. URL: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31389093/. Aufgerufen am 22.02.2022.
[3] Oyetakin-White P, Suggs A, Koo B, Matsui MS, Yarosh D, Cooper KD, Baron ED. Does poor sleep quality affect skin ageing? Clin Exp Dermatol. 2015 Jan;40(1):17-22. doi: 10.1111/ced.12455. Epub 2014 Sep 30. PMID: 25266053. URL: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25266053/. Aufgerufen am 23.02.2022.
[4] Sadick N, Edison BL, John G, Bohnert KL, Green B. An Advanced, Physician-Strength Retinol Peel Improves Signs of Aging and Acne Across a Range of Skin Types Including Melasma and Skin of Color. J Drugs Dermatol. 2019 Sep 1;18(9):918-923. PMID: 31524348. URL: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31524348/. Aufgerufen am 22.02.2022.
[5] Farris P, Zeichner J, Berson D. Efficacy and Tolerability of a Skin Brightening/Anti-Aging Cosmeceutical Containing Retinol 0.5%, Niacinamide, Hexylresorcinol, and Resveratrol. J Drugs Dermatol. 2016 Jul 1;15(7):863-8. PMID: 27391637. URL: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27391637/. Aufgerufen am 23.02.2022.
[6] Sadick N, Edison BL, John G, Bohnert KL, Green B. An Advanced, Physician-Strength Retinol Peel Improves Signs of Aging and Acne Across a Range of Skin Types Including Melasma and Skin of Color. J Drugs Dermatol. 2019 Sep 1;18(9):918-923. PMID: 31524348.URL: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31524348/. Aufgerufen am 22.02.2022.
[7] Polcz ME, Barbul A. The Role of Vitamin A in Wound Healing. Nutr Clin Pract. 2019 Oct;34(5):695-700. doi: 10.1002/ncp.10376. Epub 2019 Aug 7. PMID: 31389093.URL: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31389093/. Aufgerufen am 23.02.2022.
[8] Riem, L. Handekzem: Vitamin A-Derivat in der Zweitlinie einer Klasse für sich. hautnah dermatologie 33, 57 (2017). https://doi.org/10.1007/s15012-017-2342-9. URL: https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s15012-017-2342-9#citeas. Aufgerufen am 23.02.2022.
[9] Rosamilia LL. Over-the-counter treatments for acne and rosacea. Semin Cutan Med Surg. 2016 Jun;35(2):87-95. doi: 10.12788/j.sder.2016.026. PMID: 27416314. URL: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27416314/. Aufgerufen am 23.02.2022.
[10] Proebstle TM. Zellulitis [Cellulite]. Hautarzt. 2010 Oct;61(10):864-72. German. doi: 10.1007/s00105-010-1986-8. PMID: 20865236. URL: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20865236/. Aufgerufen am 23.02.2022.
[11] Dawson MI. The importance of vitamin A in nutrition. Curr Pharm Des. 2000 Feb;6(3):311-25. doi: 10.2174/1381612003401190. PMID: 10637381. URL: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/10637381/. Aufgerufen am 23.02.2022.
[12] Penniston KL, Tanumihardjo SA. Vitamin A in dietary supplements and fortified foods: too much of a good thing? J Am Diet Assoc. 2003 Sep;103(9):1185-7. doi: 10.1016/s0002-8223(03)00978-7. PMID: 12963949. URL: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12963949/. Aufgerufen am 23.02.2022.


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